Acquiring Skills

As in any career, developing a quality of workmanship (known as skill) is of utmost importance. Skill doesn't come quickly or easily Here are a few tips to help you along the way. Let me say, don't try to make a living at upholstery while you are getting started. You should have a day-job that pays the bills. Doing upholstery should be your second job that you do after hours. It has been said that it takes 3-5 years to get a business to be profitable. If you are wanting to go into upholstery as a profession, I'd recommend that you take this long term view of gradually working into doing it, while keeping your paying job. 

1. Get Rid of perfectionism! Yes, you need to focus on doing high quality work, but that comes later, after you have acquired some skill. At the beginning perfectionism will kill your interest. You need to realize that your first pieces that you recover will be a mess! You work will be very sloppy at first. Accept that fact, and persevere through it. Make the messes and have fun while you are doing it. 
2. Acquire Some Knowledge:Knowledge can come in a number of ways. I started this trade working with my dad at the same time he started. He did not know much more than I did, so I had no one to ask how to do something. Also, there were very few upholstery books or videos available. My knowledge came primarily by doing the work. When my family first started in the upholstery business we worked mostly for poor people, working cheap, giving credit (Boy, did we get burned a lot!). But we kept going. We had to succeed, we had to eat, we had no other income. Here are some ideas of how to begin to aquire some knowledge about upholstery.
   1. Take an upholstery class at a local college, high school, trade school, etc.
   2. Read upholstery books
   3. Borrow, rent, or buy some upholstery videos.
   4. Volunteer to work at an upholstery shop free of charge.
   5. Make friends with an upholsterer, and ask if you can just come in and watch him work.
   6. Apprentice yourself to an upholsterer.
3. Get Some Basic Tools.At first, you may still be evaluating if you really want to get started in upholstery, so you might not want to buy very much. This is very understandable. But also realize that you don't have the right tool, then the job will be much harder. Here is a list of some basic tools
   1. Sewing machine: This is perhaps the single most important, and most expensive, tool/equipment that an upholsterer needs. It is understandable that someone may not want to spend a lot on an industrial sewing machine until he/she has really decided to commit himself/herself to doing upholstery. But, also understand this, not having the correct sewing machine makes everything harder. During a transition period in my life I worked with a home sewing machine for about a year. Even as an experience profession upholsterer, trying to sew heavy upholstery fabrics on that machine was a real trial. With that said, as you are starting out, you can indeed use a home machine. You just need to use light-weight fabrics that the home sewing machine can handle. The best type of a sewing machine for upholstery is called a "walking-foot" industrial sewing machine. If you have committed yourself to doing upholstery, don't settle for any other type.
   2. A Digital Camera. If you don't have a teacher available (or even if you do), one of your important tools for learning is a digital camera.
      1. Take pictures before you take anything apart. Then take pictures at each major step as you go. When you start putting the cover back on, you can use the pictures as a guide to help you remember how it went back together.
      2. If you need help, you can take pictures of your problem, and then email the pictures to another upholsterer for advice.
   3. Stapler.
   4. Hand tools: hammer, screwdrivers, staple removers, etc. (more to follow)
4. Set up a designated work space (that is not shared with anything else): To succeed at learning upholstery, you need to set aside, and set up, an area to work in. If you try to share a space with something else, you probably won't succeed. Every time you think about doing some upholstery, you'll see the other clutter that you first have to clean, so you won't even get started.
5. Get Some Furniture to Practice On:After getting a few basic tools, you need a good supply of furniture to practice on.
   1. Use throw-away furniture: For your first pieces I would suggest that you get some old furniture (look in dumpsters, thrift stores, ask friends), find some furniture you can get for free or very cheap. Since you are using old junk furniture, you shouldn't feel afraid that you'll ruin it. Anything that you do will be better than it is.
   2. Do work for friends and acquaintances. Let them know that you are just practicing and you will do any simple pieces for free while you are learning. The advantage of doing the work for free (rather than using old furniture that you've collected yourself), is that the client will pay all the expences (purchasing fabric and supplies.)
6. Get Some Fabric: On your first pieces you don't want to spend a lot of money on fabtric. You just need some very cheap fabric, the color doesn't matter. Then use that cheap fabric to cover your first piece(s). As you gain more experience, then you can purchase better fabric.
7. Schedule your upholstery time. Put this on your calendar as you do any other appointment. Then make sure that you keep this appointment and do the work.
8. Just Do it!The hardest part of getting started is getting started. While going to classes is helpful, it's not a requirement. Upholstery is something that you can learn just by doing it. Sometimes students may use taking classes as an excuse not to get started.
   1. Don't use endless time going to classes, reading books as an excuse not to get started. Although all these things are helpful, nothing will help you learn as much as actually getting started.
   2. You will learn more by recovering some furniture (even if you are scared and don't know what to do) than you will by reading endless books and taking countless classes. Yes it will take you a while on the first few. But you will figure it out as you go, and you will learn. Just do it and you will learn!

Planning out a job before you do it can make a lot of difference whether you make any money on the job, or if you have enough fabric

On Overview of the Planning Process

During the process of taking in and doing each job, there are a number of stages of planning. There is an initial over preplanning that one does at the beginning. Then, there are more focused planning that takes place at each step. When an upholsterer is first beginning in the trade he may not know about planning, or may... Planning at all the various stages helps to minimize errors and helps to do a better job. For a beginning upholsterer this planning may need to be more involved and on paper. For a professional upholsterer, many of these planning steps are almost automatic and may only require thinking out each step in advance.

Scheduling Calendar

A Scheduling Calendar will help you keep track of your jobs

Cutting Layouts

Doing a cutting layout will often determine whether or not you will have enough fabric to finish the job. See more about cutting layouts here.

Upholstery Terminology and Abbreviations

Special Terminology

Pull Down (also called a "Stretcher Cloth"): A strip of cloth sewed to the bottom of the inside arms and inside back in areas that don't show.

Deck: the area under the seat cushions

Arc springs: zig zag springs that are in the seats and backs most modern sofas and chairs.

Tack strips: strips of cardboard or metal that have tacks embedded.

Fabric Cutting Direction

• Railroad the fabric: this means that you are cutting from the side of the fabric. The top of the fabric is across the other side of the fabric.
• Up the roll: the top of the fabric is up the roll. You cut all the fabric pieces with the top pointed up towards the roll of fabric.

Abbreviations:

Use these abbreviations to mark the back of the fabric pieces after they are cut.

IA  Inside Arm
OA  Outside Arm
AF  Arm Face
IB   Inside Backrest
OB  Outside Back 
IW   Inside Wing
OW  Outside Wing
FDK  Front Deck
FB    Front Band
TB    Top Band
CUSH  Cushion top and bottom
Box   Cushion Boxing
Zip   Cushion Zipper
Cush W  Cushion Welt

Frazzled, but Recovering

By Stephen Winters

Have you ever wondered what happens to those old worn out sofas? My wife and I run an upholstery business out of our home. Customers don’t just magically come to us. We keep a display ad in the local West Salem Newspaper, and in both Salem telephone directories, all have our family portrait in them. I think that it helps people feel familiar and comfortable with us as they think about having their well worn furniture recovered.

The process begins when the telephone rings. “Winters.” I use our last name in answering calls, just as a big business might say, “Mervyn’s.” Since we use the same telephone line jointly for our business and our personal calls, this serves as both a person and a semi-business approach of how to answer the phone. p>

I hear the client reply, “Hello, is this the upholstery shop?”

“Yes,” I answer. “What can I do for you?”

“We have an old sofa that we’d like to have recovered. Could give me some idea as to what that would cost?”

“I’ll need to ask you some questions about your furniture,” I respond. “so I can have a better picture of what it looks like. How long is your sofa?”

“Its about seven feet long, I think. Just a minute,” He pauses. In the background, I hear, “Honey, long is that sofa?”

“Seven feet,” Comes the faint reply from his wife.

He comes back on the phone, “Yes, its seven feet long.”

“How many loose cushions does it have,” I ask.

“Two.”

“How old is it?” I ask this question because furniture of various ages was made in different styles and levels of difficulty. It also helps me to know how much work may need to be done on it.

“We bought it when we moved to this house,” he says.

“How long have you lived in your house?”

“Just a minute,” he replies. Then, softly in the background I hear, “Dear, how long have we lived in this house?”

“Don’t you remember honey?” his wife responds. “We moved here just before Johnny was born. He’s thirty-three years old now. It’s a shame he’s not married yet. Do you think he’s going to marry that girl he’s dating now?”

“He’s not interested in that.” He tells her, and then he comes back to me. “We’ve been here about 33 years.”

This 3-way dialogue continues as I ask him a few more questions. “How many loose seat cushions does it have? Does it have any loose back cushions? Are there any buttons? Is there a skirt? Does it have a low back or a high back? Do the springs and the frame seem to be in good condition? How long has it been since it’s been recovered?” I may ask a few more questions, and then I try to give him a rough idea of what it will cost. “If it,s what I’m thinking it’s like, then it would probably run about $900 to $1200 for labor and fabric. That could change once I actually see the furniture.” I also ask him how soon he needs the furniture recovered. Frequently we are booked out several months before we could start on his job. If he is in a rush to have it done, then I may refer him to another skilled upholsterer.

I realize that our services might not be a good match for everyone who calls. Each client has different needs and expectations. Some want their furniture done quickly, while others would like it covered inexpensively, and a few clients appreciate high quality work and are willing to pay for it. They know from experience, “You get what you pay for.” These are the type of clients that our service best satisfies. As I give the price over the telephone, I try to qualify which type of customer is calling, and give them appropriate answers. When the expectations, prices, and schedule dates are clearly explained at the beginning, we each know if we want to proceed any further.

Giving the phone quotes before we go out to give an in-home estimate saves the customer and us time and frustration. Many people are unfamiliar with upholstery and have no idea what is involved or how much it costs. Clients typically give several different responses to our phone quotes. Most are calling to find out the cost, to decide if they want to have their furniture recovered, or to buy new furniture. Some just gasp as they hear the price; it’s a lot more than they expected. Others will politely say, “Thank you, I just wanted to know how much it would cost. I’ll call back if I’m interested.” Lastly, some callers have already had furniture recovered in the past, and are familiar with the costs. Many of these ask us to come out and do an in-home estimate. Once we agree upon a time and date, I enter their name and information into our computerized appointment calendar, and set a reminder to prompt me two hours before the estimate. I also add the directions to their home into the computer.

When the scheduled day arrives, either Emmy, my wife, or I will call the client about an hour or two in advance, to confirm the appointment. After this, I load the fabric samples, my picture-book, a clipboard, blank work orders, carbon paper, clean scratch paper, and a calculator into the van. Before I leave, I check the directions, or look on a map, to plan how to drive to their house. Upon arriving I gather the office supplies, my picture-book, and a few sample books, and go into the house. During the usual one to two hour estimates, I show pictures of my work to the clients and get them started looking through the fabric samples. Then, I’ll look at the sofa, checking the frame and the springs, and measure the cushions for new foam.

As I start figuring the estimate, I often chat with them to pass the time and to build a rapport. We may talk about the history and quality of their furniture, about our families, occupations, and different places that each of us has lived. As the clients finish looking through some of the sample books, I take those books out to the van and bring in more. At this point, they have some time, if they need it, to talk privately, until I come back inside. When they find a fabric that they like, I finish the estimate, filling in the fabric pattern, color, price and totals. After explaining each itemized charge to them, I tell them that they don’t need to make up their minds right now, that this is just a free no-obligation estimate. I’ve learned from experience not to push or coerce them in any way. I try to be helpful and give them all the information that they need. I only want to recover their furniture if it is a good decision for them, as well as for me. Some decide to think about it, because they can’t find a fabric they like, or they are not yet ready to proceed. However, many decide to go ahead with the job. I say to them, “I need a deposit of about one-half, so that I can order the fabric.” After they write the check, I record the payment on both copies of the work order, have them sign at the bottom, and give them a copy. I inform them that “I’ll order the fabric tomorrow morning” and that I’ll call them when I’m ready to do the piece, in a couple of months. When we are finished, I take everything back out to the van and return to the shop.

After bringing the samples back into our house, and hanging them up, I take care of the record keeping. In the past, I've lost some customer work orders, which created a lot of stress; I never want that to happen again. Therefore, I promptly enter the information from the work orders into Quickbooks, our accounting software. With that completed, it’s not a catastrophe if I loose the original. However, I do file it away in our filing cabinet, which gives us a double protection. Next, I make out a new Purchase Order in Quickbooks for the fabric. Since I usually do most of my estimates in the evenings, I can’t order the fabric at the same time. In view of that, I add a note to the appointment calendar to order the materials on the next business day. Ordering the supplies is a different matter; since we won’t immediately need them, or the foam, we order these things about once a month. They are added to a standing add-to-as-sales-are-made purchase order for each vendor. When we have enough to make a minimum size order, we have the items shipped to us. While I’m still at the computer, I also add the job to our work-scheduling calendar. This concludes the paperwork until the material gets here.

Within a week the roll of fabric, packaged in a long, gray, plastic bag, arrives by UPS. It’s time to fill out more paperwork, and enter more data into the computer. First, we compare and verify all the written records. After retrieving the vendor invoice from the outside of package, we compare the listed pattern, color, and yardage with those written on the fabric ID tag, the sample book, and the customer’s work order. Second, we do a visual inspection and verification. We take the roll of fabric out of the package and compare the color and pattern with the customer-approved sample. Then, as we roll the fabric onto a cardboard tube to measure it, we carefully scan the full width of the fabric to watch for flaws or color inconsistencies. With the verification process completed, we attach the customer’s name to the fabric and put the material on the appropriate shelf, where it stays until the furniture is brought into the shop. Depending upon how busy we are, this may take anywhere from a week to several months.

When we are ready for the customers’ furniture, we notify them. Sometimes the clients will bring their items into our shop. When they can’t do that, we make an appointment to pick up the furniture. If it is a sofa that needs to be picked up, we also call one of our friends to go along to help carry the other end.

Once it’s in our shop I make a sofa cover parts list by measuring and writing the size of every part of the old cover, seam to seam. I may add a few inches here and there to make some parts extra big, as needed, to be able to trim them to size. Dozens of pieces need to be cut, such as: the cushions, tops, boxings, cording, and zippers; the inside back, faces, boxing, and cording; the arms, inside, outside, and facings; the decking, front deck and decking fabric; the outside back; and the skirt, long face, cording, and underflaps. The measurements are taken front to back, side to side, and top to bottom, as I write them on my notepad. Lastly, I measure and record the width and length of the roll of fabric.

My paper is full of carefully written measurements and notes, ready for the layout. The computer drawing software that I use for my layouts allows me to generate and overlay many slides to make a multiple layered drawing. Many different components of the drawing can be created or modified on any slide, without disturbing the other parts of the illustration. I primarily use two slides, a background and a foreground. In order to make the layout of each job simpler, I’ve previously created a number of starter files, ready to use for jobs of different yardages. For example, when I’m doing a layout for a sofa that takes 14 yards of fabric, I open the file marked “14 yards.” The window comes up with the ready-to-use background and foreground slides. The background has a rectangle scaled to simulate 14 yards of fabric, which measure 54” by 504.” The foreground slide also has several small rectangular boxes, with the name and dimension labels already attached, scaled to approximate the size of the furniture cover parts.

As I start my layout, for each pattern piece needed, I simply copy and paste a box, resize it according to the measurements on the sofa cover parts list. Then I re-label it with the new name, such as, “Outside Arm” or “Front Back.” When separate boxes have been created for all the pieces on my sofa cover parts list, I start arranging the bigger boxes on the foreground slide to fit inside the large fabric rectangle, which shows through from the background slide. After this, the smaller pieces are put in around the larger boxes. This works in much the same way that a seamstress uses a pattern to make a dress. She rolls out the fabric and places the various parts of a dress pattern on top of the fabric, moving them around to where they fit best. This is what I do, except I do it on the computer screen. When I am finished, I print send it to the printer.

Using this layout, I mark fabric pieces in the same way it is laid out on the paper. Since I have a plan to follow, the cutting of the fabric becomes a simple matter, although it takes a lot of time. As the pieces are marked, they are cut, labeled, and placed in grouped piles, such as: arm pieces in one pile, decking pieces in another file, and cushion pieces in third pile. Before the pieces are sewn together, the larger primary pieces, such as the face of the inside back, are laid on the sofa and trimmed to the correct size. Then all of the corresponding pieces, that need sewing, except for the seat cushions, are sewn in place.

At this point, it’s time to work on the sofa frame. After taking the old cover off, I remove the many staples that are protruding. I check for any loose joints, inspect the springs, and replace any old or damaged burlap or support linings. After the frame has been properly inspected and put in order, its ready for the new fabric.

The first part of the new cover to be attached is the decking, which consists of two pieces of different kinds of fabric. The front deck, made from the covering fabric of the sofa, extends across the length of the sofa from about 6 inches under the front of the seat cushions forward and down toward the base of the sofa. The neutral colored, muslin type decking fabric is sewn to the front deck. These cover the cotton and the burlap that go over the seat springs. The cotton is split, to expose the burlap, across the length of the sofa about six inches back from the front edge. Two layers of cotton give additional padding to the front spring edge. In beginning to attach the fabric decking, I place the two sewn corner darts over the padded front corners of the spring edge. During the sewing process, the attached decking fabric is temporarily folded back to hang over the front of the sofa, exposing the back side of the half-inch seam allowance. Using a five inch circle needle, threaded with a heavy sewing twine, the seam allowance is stretched tight side to side and fastened at the outer edges to the heavy edgewire. Following this, the rest of the seam allowance of front deck is sewn to the burlap. The muslin decking fabric is then lifted up, laid over the padded springs, and tucked through the horizontal openings at the back and sides of the deck. It will be stapled later from the outside of the sofa. The front deck is now measured as it is pulled and stapled at the bottom. Finally, the decking fabric is pulled tight and stapled around the back and sides.

Subsequently, the arms are padded with another layer of cotton. The inside arm fabric pieces are placed over the padding, with about 3 inches extending over the front and top edges. The remainder is folded back where it meets the inside back. Several staples are used to attach the top of the fabric in place. Slits are made in the material at the lower front and the back, and then the fabric is tucked through the long narrow openings. After securely tacking the rest of the top, the bottom is pulled snugly and stapled in place. The front of the fabric is now fastened as it is folded around the corners and curves at the top. Lastly the fabric at the back of the arm is pulled and stapled in place.

Now we are ready for the inside back, sometimes called the front back, to be installed. The pre-sewn cover, which is still folded inside out, is aligned around the arms, and at the top corners. Slits are made at the sides to go around the frame structures. Other cuts are made to form tails at the bottom corners. The two top corners are padded and then measured as they are fastened. After this, to lower the curved shapes down tightly onto the arms, the two tails are pulled down through the slots at the bottom. Then, the top of the back is measured and stapled across the sofa. Lastly, the bottom of the inside back is pulled and stapled, as it is measured from the front.

With the inside of the sofa fastened, the cushions can be fitted. First, the center of the deck is marked, front and back. Then two of the new cushion tops are placed face down on the deck to evenly overlap at the center and the front. They are marked to fit around the arms and the inside back. Next, those two cushion tops are placed face to face, with marks aligned and adjusted as necessary, and are both cut to the same size. Each of these is placed face to face on the two remaining cushion tops, which are also cut to the same size. While they are together, alignment short-marks are spaced around each matching cushion face, top and bottom.

At the sewing machine, the cording is sewn around each the cushion faces. Then the boxings are sewn to each cushion face as the short-marks are aligned. After the zipper is attached, the cushion is double sewn to tighten all the cording and to strengthen the seams. When cushions are turned right side out, they are filled with new polyester wrapped polyfoam. They are zipped up, placed on the sofa to verify a good fit, and then, set aside.

As the sofa is finished up, the outside arms are attached at the top with a cardboard strip. After the frame is padded, the outside arms are pulled and tacked at the bottom and the back. A metal tackstrip is used to blind tack the front edge. The outside back is finished in the same manner, with the cardboard strips at the top and the tackstrips at the sides. The sofa is then turned on its back. A black dust cloth is stapled to the bottom, and then the legs are attached. The sofa is turned back upright, and the lint is blown off with an air blower. After putting the cushions back on, the last task is to take a picture of the finished furniture.

It’s finally time to deliver the sofa. Emmy calls the customers to arrange for delivery. If needed, she also calls a friend to help. She prints out two copies of the work order, as I take the seats out of the van. I load the sofa into the van and deliver it. Once its been carried into the customers’ house, I talk to the clients to see if they like it. I never get tired of hearing, “That’s beautiful! I’m so pleased with it!” Upon receiving the check, I mark their copy paid, have them sign my copy, and leave.

When I arrive back at the shop, I make a copy of the check and enter the record of payment into Quickbooks. Emmy makes out a deposit slip and takes the check to the bank. And the job is done.

There are a lot of details to successfully operating an upholstery business. Careful planning and meticulous attention to details are key to doing high quality work and developing long term customer approval. The high level of client appreciation and satisfaction makes all the hard work worth the effort.

 The Ways That Upholsterers Do Their Jobs

by Stephen Winters

Since my immersion into the trade in 1966, I have come to realize that there are many different skill levels in the upholstery trade. I have been through many skill levels myself, and I have known other upholsterers at different levels. Those who are just beginning into the trade have very limited skills; to attract clients some of these often use such gimmicks as: having the “cheapest prices”, using flattery or smooth talk, “doing it fast”, or claiming to be “the best.” Those who use these tactics may never advance to higher skill levels. But those who are truly learning the trade avoid these tactics as they learn better skills. In order to become a true craftsman it takes a lot of hard work, diligence, experience, admitting and fixing countless mistakes, asking advice, experimenting with different methods, and constantly looking for better ways to achieve higher levels of quality. The true craftsman doesn’t need any gimmicks to get customers; his workmanship and reputation speak for themselves.

The Ways That Upholsterers Do Their Jobs

by Stephen Winters for WR115

     Some of the biggest misunderstandings may develop between an upholsterer and a client when there is a mismatch between the type of upholsterer and the type of client. Each client has their own set up expectations, preferences, things they consider important, quality awareness, and cost preference. Similarly, each upholsterer has his own set up skill levels, preferences, supplies, tools, experience, integrity, quality awareness and prices. As long as there is not trickery or deception involved, there is a good match up when a client and an upholsterer both are "on the same page". For instance, some clients consider all upholsterer "the same". This client has no awareness of the variations of quality or experience. So, this client just looks for the "cheapest price". She should find a worker who specializes in working cheap. This would be a good match up. Similarly, a client who is aware of differences in quality and experience and who is expecting top quality should find a skilled craftsman who is quite experienced and focuses on quality work. This would also be a good match up. However, there would not be a good match up if either of the aforementioned clients went to the other type of upholsterer. Although this article (below) is kind of a spoof (fun) writing, it carries a lot of weight. Make sure that your expections of both quality and price line up with the upholsterer.

Since my immersion into the trade in 1966, I have come to realize that there are many different skill levels in the upholstery trade. I have been through many skill levels myself, and I have known other upholsterers at different levels. Those who are just beginning into the trade have very limited skills; to attract clients some of these often use such gimmicks as: having the “cheapest prices”, using flattery or smooth talk, “doing it fast”, or claiming to be “the best.” Those who use these tactics may never advance to higher skill levels. But those who are truly learning the trade avoid these tactics as they learn better skills. In order to become a true craftsman it takes a lot of hard work, diligence, experience, admitting and fixing countless mistakes, asking advice, experimenting with different methods, and constantly looking for better ways to achieve higher levels of quality. The true craftsman doesn’t need any gimmicks to get customers; his workmanship and reputation speak for themselves.

Cheap Charlie, “the cheapest upholsterer in town,” gives no thought about quality because he believes that most people are looking for the lowest price. He takes pride in giving people “real bargains.” For more about him, see link at bottom of page.

Smooth-Talking Sam is proud of his sales ability; using the “bait and switch” method, he can easily get his foot in the door “to give a free estimate.” He can make a sale most of the time. For more about him, see link at bottom of page.

Fast Freddie may be the hardest worker of all the different upholsterers; while using his speed to get things done quickly he tries to do what he thinks is a reasonable job. For more about him, see link at bottom of page.

Average-Avery is a fairly likeable fellow. Having successfully been in the upholstery business for a number of years, he does a pretty good job, and most of his repeat clients are reasonably happy with his work. For more about him, see link at bottom of page.

Perfectionist Pete is proud of, what he thinks are, his “superior abilities.” He has been doing upholstery for many years and perhaps learned his trade from a craftsman. For more about him, see link at bottom of page.

Craftsman Craig is a rare find, but those who do find him remain immensely loyal. He truly loves people and sees each of his clients as unique human beings, each having their own individual set of needs, desires, and wishes. He treats each customer as he would like to be treated, with great dignity and respect, dealing honestly and truthfully with them.  For more about him, see link at bottom of page.

Like any profession, there are types of upholsterers at many different skill levels. There is a good match-up between upholsterers and clients when the right type of upholsterer does work for the corresponding right type of client. Those who work cheaply are best suited to those clients who, unconcerned about quality, want a cheap price. The fast upholsterers are good matches for those clients who want it “NOW!” The average upholsterer is good for most average clients with average expectations. The Perfectionist finds his niche in doing work for people who want to think that they are getting “the very best.” The harder-to-find craftsmen is a good match for those who value their furniture, and who truly appreciate his fastidious attention to the fine details of putting out a true work of art. Those who claim to be “the best” seldom are; those who are the best don’t need to say it.

Those who value this profession will keep learning and persevere through the many difficult times. They will continue to improve their skills as stay in the trade through many years. Those who charge a realistic price for the level of quality that they produce, and deal straightforwardly and honestly with their customers will gain a following of loyal client that will keep them in business for many years.

Over the years many different types of methods and materials have been used in the upholstery trade. In recent years a certain method and a particular set of materials has been labeled as "Traditional."

Through the years new materials, tools, and supplies have been made available by the upholstery supply companies, which the older types of supplies and materials have passed away. With the new materials, new methods have been developed that are better suited to the new tools and supplies. For instance, the arrival and improvements of the air staples have changed the way that a large percentage of upholsterers apply the fabrics to the furniture frames.  In like manner, the invention of the sewing machine, and its improvement over time, has greatly altered the way that upholstery covers are constructed.

Quality Versus Methods

With any type of materials there are usually higher and and lower quality of materials and methods.

Each of us in the upholstery trade, whether  advanced professional, or beginning do-it-yourselfer, has tiny tidbits of information that would be helpful for others to know. Upholstery is not a self-enclosed trade. Many people come into this trade with a wide variety of backgrounds, skills, and interests. Even a rank beginner, who may have a wide depth of knowledge in other areas of his/her life, may learn or discover new or better ways of doing something, of supplies to use, that other more experienced professionals may never have thought of. In this society new materials are constantly being developed. Some of these may be useful to the upholstery trade. OR a person may have many skills in other trades or professions that might improve some of the upholstery methods. Which leads me to these thoughts

Today I'm repairing a couple of feather throw pillows. The pillows match the client's sofa, which she has had for about fifteen years. Because the feathers are coming throw the covers, the client wants to have the feathers replaced with a soft dacron filling. As I take the down ticking inner cover out of the outter cover, the multitude of feathers that escaped the ticking cover are all over the inside of the fabric cover. Because many of the feathers are stuck to, or starting to penetrate the fabric cover, the job of simply replacing the filling becomes more complicated and time consuming. It is a tedious task of pulling each feather loose from the cover. Consequently, I realized that I should have charged more for this job. However, when I took in the order I hadn't even thought about it being more work to restuff a feather throw pillow.

As I thought about that, I had an idea that this is a valuable bit of knowledge, but there's not enough information here to write an article. It's just a little tidbit of knowledge that would be useful to know. With this came a realization that there are a lot of little tidbits of upholstery knowledge that would  be good to remember and to share. These tidbids need to be easy to share and easy to find. So, I'm thinking about what would be needed to set up an "Upholstery Tidbits" section on this website. Perhaps something like a "classified adds" module, that is customized for this use, might be workable. I'll have to do some research and see what I can find.