Upholstery Leather.

After Receiving yet another call by a client wanting leather (and having to tell here about the expense of leather), I went on the Internet to find out more information. I've heard about "split leather" before, and wanted to find out more about it. The Question I had in my mind; "Why does upholstery leather cost so much, and yet the new furniture stores can sell leather furniture so inexpensively?"

I did this "Google Search on Leather" and came up with this web page:

The Leather Controversy  

"Some essential  information and advice for those contemplating purchasing leather upholstered furniture: 

"Split leather", "bi-cast leather"(or just plain "bi cast"), "reconstituted leather", "corrected grain", "full grain", "aniline", "pigmented" - just some of the  terms used within the leather industry but not generally explained to the furniture buying public ..... "

Upholstery Springs

When you purchase springs  the spring measurements (4", 6", 8",etc) represent the approximate uncompressed height of the spring when you purchase it. Once you tie the springs they will be shorter. The chart below gives you a rough idea of what the height of the springs might be after they are tied. The actual height after they are tied will vary, as described below.

Height of Upholstery Seat Springs after they are tied (compressed)

This chart is intended to help you choose the approximate correct size of upholstery springs.

Here are the approximate sizes and compression ranges to upholstery coil springs for seats. Pick a spring size where the mid point is the nearest to your desired height. These seats springs are available in either 9 gauge medium or 8 gauge firm springs. The sizes are not meant to be an exact representation, but only an approximate height. There is a lot of room for variance in the height of each upholstery spring. If the height of the springs are a little too high for the space you can tie the springs down tighter, or you can reduce the amount of padding on top of the springs. If the springs are a little shorter than your desired height, don't tie them down quite as tight, or add more padding on top of the springs.

Lowest point represents the height after the springs at pulled tightly down to their approximate lowest point.

Mid Point represents the idea (mid range) height of the springs after their are tied. Use the midpoint to choose your desired spring height.

Highest point refers to highest (or loosest) point at which the springs might be tied. 

*Don't take the compressed height measurements too literally. Compression will vary depending upon spring wire gauge and the firmness of the springs. Use this chart only as a rough approximate guide.

Upholstery Springs are available in most of these sizes listed in the chart. However,  most suppliers only carry a few of the sizes. If your supplier doesn't carry the size you need, you may need to contact some other suppliers.

Controlling the firmness of the springs in the seat. 

There are several ways to control the firmness or softness of the seat springs.

First, you can order a firm, medium, or soft springs.

Secondly, you can control the firmness by how tight you compress the springs when you tie them. The more you compress the spring (such as to the lowest point on the chart), the firmer the springs will be.

Third, you can control the firmness or softness of the seat by how you space the springs. The closer the springs are to each other, the firmer the seat. The further away the springs are from each other, the softer the seat.

Gauge on springs

Generally the lower the number the firmer the spring (although there are exceptions, check with the supplier to be sure.)

• The 8 gauge springs are the firmest grade,
• 9 gauge come are the next firmest. However 9 gauge also comes in medium and firm, so check when one you are getting when you order them.
• 13 guage springs are very soft that are used in the backrests of the furniture.

Types of Upholstery Coil Springs

Upholstery coil springs come in at least two types. One type has the wire loose at both ends. The other type has one end of the wire knotted. I prefer the type with the knotted end. When you place the springs in the furniture, always put the knotted end at the top.

Spacing of Springs

The circled ends of upholstery spring are approximately 4 1/2 in diameter.  In theory, the springs can be spaced anyway from about 5 1/2" to 8" or more (measured center to center.) The actual spacing will be determined by the measurement of the seat area and the desired firmness of the seat area. There is no hard fast rule as to exact spacing. However, here are some guidelines. The edges of the springs are generally about 1" inside the bottom of the arm frame

Firmness

The firmness of the seat can be controlled in two ways. One, is to purchase either medium or firm springs, depending upon your what you choose. The other way to control the firmness of the spring is in the spacing. To build a firmer seat, space the springs very close together, with perhaps 1-2" inches between the springs. To build a softer seat, space the springs further apart, from 2-4" (or further) apart.

Before Purchasing the springs

If you are unfamiliar with the height of the springs I'd recommend that you first purchase 3 springs, one spring that is the height that you think you want, then buy one taller and one shorter spring. Then take them back to your shop and test each one to see which one seems best suited for the height that you want.

Testing The Spring Height

You test the spring by putting your hand flat on the top of the spring and pushing down. The spring pushes down fairly easily for the first inch or two (depending on the uncompressed height of the spring). Then, as you continue to press down you will find that the spring begins to push back up against your hand. It's at the point where you feel the spring press firmly up against your hand that will be the compressed height of the spring. Measure that height. This is not an exact science. This just give you an approximate finished height for your springs, and that measurement will vary a little, and that's OK.

I get some people who inquire about getting “Down/Feather” fill for their seat cushions. First, let me say that in it's proper use, down is a wonderful material. When it is used in jackets or in comforters it is very light and keeps the warm in very well. In that use it is a great project.

Secondly, let’s address the topic of “down/feathers”. Unless you pay a lot of money for mostly down, what you get is mostly feathers (95% feathers and 5% down). It seems to me that “Down/Feathers” at that percentage is mostly a marketing gimmick. 5% down would not even be noticeable. So what you really have is feathers, so I will use that name.

I do not recommend feather filling for seat cushions (because when you sit on a cushion you put almost all of your weight on it and crush the softness out of it.)  It is almost worthless as a filling used under you to support your weight.  Although it “sounds” like it would be wonderfully soft, the reality is that you would sit right through a “soft” seat cushion and bottom out. If you fill a cushion full enough with down/feathers to make it firmer, then it becomes hard and looks “bulgy”. In addition, to use down/feathers in a seat cushion, the cushion would need to be lined. However, just lining it is not enough. If you put all the feathers in a big open cover the feathers would tend to scoot to the side as much as it could. In addition, it would not give you much support. To better the use of down in a seat cushion you would need to use a down-proof pillow ticking with several horizontal pockets: a center pocket holds a foam core (at least 1/2 the height of the cushion. it would also need to have pockets on the top and bottom for the feathers. however, when you sit on feathers they tend to move to the edges of the cushion. So, the top and bottom pockets need dividers to keep the feathers in place. However, even with all of those extra measures, the reality of what you get does not measure up to the illusion of a “down filled” cushion. Of course, no one wants to admit that they are not comfortable, thinking that they have the “luxury” of down.

The other place where down is better used is in throw pillows or in back pillows. However, again, the illusion is more profound than reality. The feathers in “down/feather-filled” back pillows usually drop down to the bottom so that is is just a big bulgy pillow. In order to make the back pillow stand upright the back cushion needs to have baffles (pockets) sewn into it (kind of like stacking 3 or 4 feather-filed tubes on top of one another. The pockets help to keep the feathers in place. This arrangement is more acceptable because as you lean back against the cushion you are only putting a limited amount of your weight against it. Many people may find this quite acceptable.

Making a little bit of a crown:

After cutting your foam to size, you can just wrap or glue about 1" bonded dacron wrap onto each side of the foam may give you the look you want. It gives a little bit of a crown.

When this is stuffed into the cushion, it will give a rounded effect. (which I use for most of my jobs.)

Getting more of a Crown:

If you want more of a crown than that (see drawing below), to give a higher crown on a foam cushion (see A in Drawing), you can start by cutting a piece of 1/2" foam about 2/3 the size of the foam (B in drawing). Be sure to taper (cut at a slant) the edges of the dacron. Then glue it to the center of the top and bottom of the foam. Then, for the layer of Dacron (C in Drawing), cut 2 pieces the same size as the foam and glue one on each side of the foam, on top of the smaller pieces of Dacron. 

Then, as papasage said (on that other board), you can cut the cushion side boxing narrower. For instance, if you are using 5 inch foam, you can also cut the boxing about 5 " wide also. After it is sewn, the boxing will be 4" wide (It will cause the top and bottom of the cushion to come down over the side a little, which, when combined with the dacron wrap, will increase the "appearance" of a higher crown.)

I hope that helps.

Best Wishes,
Stephen

Info about latex Foam

Sources for Latex Foam

Sleep Like a Bear

Latex International Talalay Latex Mattress Toppers

Sources for Adhesives for Latex Foam

Most upholstery supplies will handle foam adhesives.

Foam for Upholstery

    You use a much softer foam on the backrest than on a seat because, when you sit on foam you are putting much more weight on the seat foam. By contrast, when you lean against the backrest, you put very little weight against it. (Remember, most of you weight is going to the seat foam.)
     Most seat foam has a firmness rating of aprox. 26 lbs to 30 lbs (soft), 30 lbs to 40 lbs (medium), 40 lbs to 48 lbs (Firm) and 49 lbs to 55 lbs (Extra Firm)
     Conversely, firmness ratings for backrests run about 15 lbs to 20, very soft 20 lbs to 24 (medium-soft)
soft foarm for backs
     So, when you choose a back foam

Foam is Rated by weight and density

Glue Choices

Do you need to know what kind of glue to use for your project(s)?. Here are some resources to help you make a wise choice.

This to That:* What Glue should you use to glue two different types of material together? This website gives some recommended glues for each type of material.

Titebond:* Professional Titebond Cabinet Shop and Woodworking glues. Go to their website to download the Product & Application Technical Guide

Homestead Finishing Products:* Woodworking Glues - Some Facts That Will Stick   by Jeff Jewitt. is an article about various types of glue and how they work.

The Wood Magazine has a "Guide to Woodworking Glues*" on their website

Visit the Woodweb for "The largest collection of woodworking related information all in Woodweb's Knowledge Base.*"

*For these web links, special thanks to Keith from the
Guardsman FurniturePro Cincinnati East
https://windowtreatmentblog658.wordpress.com/
https://www.yahoo.com/

Shop Supplies

1. Fine Tipped Marking Devices (Used to mark fabric before cutting. The type of marker used depends on the color and type of fabric, and the color and type of marker)
   1. Tailor's chalk
   2. Carpenter's pencils
   3. Fabric Marking Pencils
   4. Don't use felt tipped markers, such as Sharpies. The may bleed through the fabric with time, use, and cleaning.
2. Masking Tape: apply to the back of fabrics and mark clien't name or furniture part ID on it.
3. Antiseptic spray
4. Bandaids: In upholstery, there are numerous things to give you tiny knicks or cuts. Use a bandage on ALL cuts and knicks, no matter how small. Even the tiniest cut can bleed a drop of blood that can make have redo a large part of your furniture project. The bandaid keeps you from bleeding on the fabric.
5. First Aid Kit: You get to figure this one out.
6. Fine steel wool
7. Old English Scratch Cover Polish
8. Carpenter's yellow wood glue
9. Single edge razor blades
10. Button Molds (sizes 22, 30, 36, 45, 60)
11. Disinfectant spray: used to kill bugs and ... inside the old furniture.
12. Painter's Plastic, roll of 9' wide X 400 ft . Good for:
    1. Covering up stuff, to shield from overspray when you use foam glue.
    2. Also good for laying over a dirty table when you want to keep stuff clean.
    3. Good for wrapping finished jobs.
    4. Can also use as a substitute plastic for vacuum stuffing cushions.
13. Flooring Paper: roll of about 35" wide: good to make patterns (or any type of wide paper might also work, butcher paper, maybe newsprint paper.)

The Question was asked, "What type of decking does each upholsterers use?

My Response:
I generally keep a roll of regular decking fabric on hand. Right now the roll is kind of a goldish beige. I've also had rolls of beige, and also had dark blue, which I'd only use on certain colors.
I've also used a variety of different fabrics. I like self-decks, if I have enough fabric for the job. Often I have used the regular decking fabric. Also, at times I have went down to the local fabric store when they have had sales, and buy whatever is heavy and cheap in earth colors. Sometimes I'd buy a inexpensive fabric that would go with the fabric I'm working with. I'd especially go to a fabric store if there is not enough fabric for a self deck, and I don't like how the decking fabric I have goes with the fabric I'm working on.

I guess part of my motivation for not using self-decks to often is wanting to save as much of the covering fabric as possible in case I make a mistake and have to recut something. Also, whenever I do self deck, I often use stretcher cloths around the sides and back of the self-deck, which causes extra work. I hate to waste fabric, and using self-deck without the stretcher cloths seems like wasting the fabric, but it is extra work. (so I contradict myself here, oh well  )

But, as I'm writing this out, I'm rethinking this. I really like the looks of self-deck. Something to think about doing more often.

Best Wishes,
Stephen

Double cording (also called double welting) is used in upholstery between the wood and the fabric joins. It is used to cover up the staple or tacks that are used to attach the fabric to the frame.

To make and attach double welt to a fabric covered furniture, these supplies are recommended

Supplies for making the welt.

• The upholstery fabric
• Scissors to cut the fabric
• Ruler to mark the straight lines
• Marker
• Sewing machine
• Double welt foot for sewing machine
• Cording (They sell a double cording, but I've never used it. I use the standard 5/32" welt)
• Thread to match the color of the fabric

Supplies for attaching the double welt to the furniture

• spray paint same color as the fabric
• light sandpaper
• stapler with a long snout
• thin wire staples

Making the Double Cording

If you don't have a double cording foot for your sewing machine, purchase one. A professional upholsterer should have the necessary tools of the trade, and this is one tool you should have.

Even though I have had some premade double cording filling, I have never used it on a job. (Which is not to say that you shouldn't use it, maybe you can figure it out better than I could.

I use the standard 5/32" single welt, and just sew it twice.

1. Cut the fabric strips at least 2 1/4" wide. It can be cut up the roll or diagnally. If you have a fabric that unravels easily, then cut it diagonally.
2. Sew the cording along one side with a little seam allowance sticking out
3. Trim off the seam allowance along the seam so that only about 1/8" of the allowance remains
4. Using the double cording foot on your sewing machine, fold and sew the other cording tight against the first cording, as you sew between the two cordings
5. After the cording has been sewn, trim off the extra fabric on the back side to about 1/8th to 3/16". (Check that the raw edges don't show from the front.)

Attaching the Double Cording

There are multiple ways to attach the double welt to the frame.The way that I have settle on in recent years is I staple the double welt to the frame.

1. First, lightly sand the top of the staples so that the paint will better adher to the staples. 
2. Spray paint the top of the staples with a spray paint that matches (as close as possible) the color of the fabric.
3. Attach  the double cording by stapling the colored staples right on the stitch line in the center of the double cording.
4. Then, using a pair of pliers, squeeze the two cordings together to cover up the center staples as much as possible.

Alternate Method
Another method of attaching double cording is to use a white glue or fabric glue. Using this method you need to be much more careful to watch that you don't get the glue on the fabric. White glue ususlly dries clear and it holds the welting quite securely in place IF it has been properly glued and dried in place.

If possible, lay the furniture in such a way that the working area flat. For instance, if you will be putting the double weld on the front base, then lay the furniture on its back. You can apply glue in areas that are not flat. You just need to be more careful. Tip: get a piece of thin plastic (i.e. painter's drop cloth/plastic) and cover up any fabric areas where the glue might drop onto.

Sqeeze the glue out onto the stapled area about a foot or two at a time. Then press the double cord down onto the glued area and "lightly" put a few staples into the cording to hold it in place as the glue dries. (Once the glue has dried, pull the staples out).

Don'ts

DO NOT use hot glue to fasten the double cording onto the furniture. It may be quicker but it does not hold securely and the job is much sloppier. The hot glue often stick out from under the cording and sometimes gets on the fabric. I speak from experience. I do not recommend using hot glue.

Occassionally an upholstery client may request two color double welt around the wood.

Here's sample of beige and black vinyl double welt (layed on a red table).  Making it can be pretty simple.

 

Making 2-Color Double Welt

First Cut your two strips of fabric about 1 1/2" wide.
Sew together, put your first color of welt into you sewing machine as if you were going to sew it as a single welt. Then put the second color face down on top of the first welt, and sew the two pieces together like this:

After sewing, trim the seam allowance on the back close to the seam:

Then wrap the second fabric around the next strip of cording and sew it together through the top:

After sewing, trim fabric close to the seam on the back side of the welt.